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Chapter 2: The Hidden Edge of theWorld, Nishinoshima

  • 詩自悠
  • Aug 4
  • 11 min read

🌅 From Pitch Black to Sunrise: The Cove at Dawn


That night, the sea was as calm as a mirror. Snug in our hard-shell rooftop tent — insulated and windproof — we drifted off to the soft sound of waves, sleeping about as soundly as we ever have. We woke the next morning to a dazzling wash of blue and clarity. The pitch-black midnight cove at Akichi Bunko had transformed overnight — a brilliant sunrise, soothing blue skies, and emerald water so clear you could see straight to the bottom, where kelp and seagrass shimmered in the sunlight. It looked almost AI-generated, and yet it was completely real.


Calm turquoise bay between green cliffs under a clear blue sky, with reflections on still water and no people.
 So beautiful it looked almost AI-generated!

🍳 The Slide-Out Camp Kitchen: A Leisurely Breakfast


We pulled the Hilux's tailgate slide straight out — an open-air kitchen paired with a self-powered stainless steel car fridge — and fired up the stove in the sea breeze. Fresh toasted sandwiches, rich fried eggs, and it wasn't just about a freshly brewed cup of coffee — it was about sitting in an outdoor camp chair, eating breakfast while taking in this private slice of paradise. That unhurried, take-it-as-it-comes feeling of "unhurried freedom" is the single most important element of 4x4 Overlanding.


Hands open a silver electric cooler in a car trunk, with QR-code stickers and a green roadside background.
The self-powered stainless steel car fridge
Breakfast plate by water with SORA CAMPERS mug, egg, bacon sandwich, ham, cherry tomatoes, and watermelon on a table.
A delicious Sora Campers breakfast
Pickup with rooftop tent parked by a calm bay; two people relax in folding chairs against green mountains, plate 22-88.
 Savouring a freshly brewed coffee in this hidden paradise

🌊 Into the Divine Realm: The Kelp Forest and Millennia of Sea-Carved Wonders


Full and content, we fired up the Hilux and headed straight for Nishinoshima's most iconic stretch of coastline — Kuniga Coast. As we approached the shoreline, sunlight cut through the impossibly clear water, revealing an entire underwater world of layered, golden-green "kelp forest" beneath the surface — a sight so striking it left us breathless.


The "Kelp Forest" Floating on Turquoise Water — Under direct sunlight, the crystal-clear water shimmers in layered shades of sapphire and emerald. Most astonishing of all is the vast, golden kelp forest hugging the shoreline, dense enough to rival a forest on land. It sways gently beneath the glassy surface with every wave, weaving together with the rugged volcanic reefs and green mountains into a scene of raw, untamed beauty.


Sunny rocky bay with green mountains, clear blue water, and visible underwater seaweed beneath a calm sky
Kuniga Coast's crystal-clear water, with the "kelp forest" floating on turquoise waves

Kannon Rock, Rising From the Sea — Turn your gaze, and a towering solitary rock juts straight up from the water toward the sky. This is the famous Kannon Rock — from certain angles, its silhouette resembles Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy, quietly watching over these waters, radiating a solemn natural presence.


Jagged sea stack and rocky cliffs rise above clear blue ocean under a cloudless sky on a sunny day
A colossal solitary rock rising from the sea — Kannon Rock

Tsutenkyo: The Great Sea Arch — Following the trail further, Kuniga Coast's most iconic sight suddenly appears: Tsutenkyo, a massive natural sea arch. Its deep brown, rugged rock layers are streaked with volcanic colour, carved by centuries of relentless waves into a towering arch that stands defiant against the Sea of Japan — a testament to nature's power to both destroy and create.


Rocky sea arch and cliffs above clear blue water under a cloudless sky, with a calm, rugged coastal landscape.
 Carved by centuries of crashing waves — the natural sea arch, Tsutenkyo

A Myth Tucked Into the Cliffs: Kuniga Shrine and Its Torii by the Sea — What captivated us Overlanders most was the deeply mysterious hidden sanctuary tucked into these cliffs. Passing through a jagged formation of boulders, a weathered wooden torii gate stands quietly by the sea, blending seamlessly into the landscape. Following the gravel path behind it, we found — improbably tucked into a near-vertical crack in the rock face — an ancient, exquisite little shrine: Kuniga Shrine.


Small Shinto shrine tucked into a rocky cliff, with a stone wall and white paper streamers; Japanese text on the front.
 Kuniga Shrine, tucked deep into a crevice in the cliff face

Wedged between towering volcanic rock and sheer cliffs, this small shrine feels remarkably solitary and sacred. Following local custom, we pressed our palms together before the offering box, giving thanks for the clear skies that let us fully experience this divine realm.


Right beside the road at Kuniga Park, an unassuming wooden bus stop sign reads "Kuniga" (国賀) — its timetable showing only four buses a day. The inconvenience says it all: tourism here on the Oki Islands is still far from fully developed, all the more reason to leave your footprint on this untouched landscape while it stays this way. Only a Sora Campers rooftop-tent overland 4x4 is never bound by a timetable — leave whenever you want, stay as long as you like. That's what truly travelling with "unhurried freedom" looks like.


Blue bus stop sign on a weathered wooden post with a Japanese timetable for route 22, under a sunny sky.
The Kuniga bus stop sign — four buses a day

🐴 A Wild Encounter at the Edge of the Cliffs: Face to Face with the Wild Horses of Oki


Leaving behind Kuniga Coast's dramatic rock formations, the Hilux's engine roared back to life. Ahead, endless green highlands began to unfold as we set our sights on the island's ultimate landmark — the 257-metre Matengai Cliff. But on this climbing mountain road, a group of the island's mysterious original residents was waiting to give us a surprise encounter...


🚗 1. A First Encounter With the "Wild Horses of Oki" — Around one bend, several powerfully built wild Oki horses stood squarely in the middle of the road. We eased to a stop, and one large, sturdy horse with a white-marked face wandered right up, curiously approaching our off-road machine to say hello. When a two- tonne, boldly built pickup meets a muscular wild Oki horse, the resulting "stand-off" was, strangely, perfectly harmonious.


Brown horse sniffs the front of a Toyota Hilux SUV with a roof box on a country road, green hills and blue sky behind.
A "Wild Horse of Oki" approaching the Hilux to say hello

🤝 2. Stepping Out: The Gentlest Kind of Closeness — These "Wild Horses of Oki" were far tamer than we ever imagined — we might as well call them the "Purebred Horses of Oki." Instead of shying away from us, they simply kept grazing, utterly living up to their reputation as Oki Island's mascot: "photograph us all you like." We reached out tentatively, gently stroking their thick, smooth manes in a moment of completely unguarded tenderness.

Chestnut horse grazes on a sunny grassy hill while a man in a cap photographs it on his phone under a blue sky.
 Oki Island's mascot

As we leaned in closer, one horse suddenly pressed in for a warm, damp kiss, nuzzling gently against my cheek — I genuinely didn't know how to react to that much affection at such close range. Capturing that intimate photo against a backdrop where sea and sky melted into one was a feeling almost impossible to put into words.


Smiling man selfies as a brown horse nuzzles his hair in a sunny grassy hilltop field under a clear blue sky.
A wild horse leaning in for a warm, damp kiss — I didn't know how to react
Hand petting a brown horse grazing in a sunny grassy hillside with other horses and a small building in the background.
Stroking a wild horse's thick, smooth mane

🐎 3. Letting Their Guard Down: The "Wild Horses of Oki" Rolling in the Grass — Here, there are no fences, no rush — people, vehicle, and horses all shared the same moment completely. One horse right beside us, without a hint of shyness, suddenly flopped down onto the grass — and, just like an oversized dog, rolled onto its back and thrashed happily from side to side, practically begging us to come play. This kind of unfiltered, spiritual connection with nature's creatures isn't something an ordinary trip can offer.


Two brown horses on a sunny grassy hill, one rolling on its back while the other stands nearby under a clear blue sky.
 A goofy wild horse rolling on its back, showing off for us

🏔 The Final Challenge: Matengai, Japan's Answer to the Faroe Islands


As much as we hated to leave this lovable herd of wild horses, we wound our way up the mountain road toward the highest point of the Oki Islands — Matengai Cliff. This 257-metre sheer drop is the true final destination of our Oki adventure. It's earned the nickname "Japan's version of the Faroe Islands" for good reason: like the world-famous Trælanípa cliff in the Faroes, Matengai offers vast, treeless green slopes that plunge straight down to sea level as if sliced by a knife — the raw grandeur of the Atlantic and the vastness of the Sea of Japan unexpectedly speaking the same breathtaking language at the edge of these grasslands.


Steep green cliffs rise above dark blue ocean, with rocky coves and clear turquoise water under a pale sky.
The 257-metre Matengai Cliff

Following the wooden trail marker for the "Daisen-Oki National Park Matengai Hiking Trail," the path leads all the way down to Kuniga Coast on Nishinoshima below — the cliff top and the coastline beneath it (around Tsutenkyo and Kuniga Beach) are, in fact, connected by a hiking trail, one selected among Japan's official "100 Best Hiking Trails."


Wooden sign with Japanese text overlooks green cliffs and blue sea, with rocky islets under a clear sky.
Daisen-Oki National Park — the Matengai hiking trail

📝 Overlander Field Notes: Hiking the Matengai Trail


Route & Scenery — The trail typically begins at the top of Matengai, 257 metres above sea level (with a viewing platform and wide grassy fields where cattle and horses graze). Following the path downhill leads directly to coastal sights like Tsutenkyo and Kuniga Beach, with close-up views along the way of cliffs and rock formations shaped dramatically by wind and waves.


Distance & Time — About 2.5km one way, taking roughly 45–60 minutes on foot (allow more time if you plan to stop for photos along the way).


Things to Note — With an elevation change of around 250 metres, the trail is mostly slopes and steps. Walking downhill is easier on the knees and stamina, though some sections still involve a fair incline. Most of the route runs across open, exposed grassland cliffs, so winds can get quite strong — come prepared with wind and sun protection. The classic approach is to drive up to the top of Matengai first, hike down to enjoy the coastal views around Tsutenkyo, then have a vehicle pick you up at the bottom — a Sora Campers rooftop-tent overland 4x4 makes the ideal pickup partner for exactly this kind of route.


Aerial view of green coastal cliffs, winding road, and rocky blue bays with a small boat below.
The hiking trail leads all the way down to coastal sights like Tsutenkyo and Kuniga Beach

Switching to an aerial view finally reveals just how immense Matengai truly is — a sense of scale between mountain and sea that can only really be understood from above. The familiar wooden gazebo lookout at the cliff top looks tiny from the drone's perspective, and the visitors standing beside it only emphasize just how vast and endless this grassy cliff-top really is.


Green cliff with a small pavilion and fence on top, rugged mountains in back under a clear sky.
An aerial view of the gazebo lookout at the cliff top — tiny figures against a magnificent cliff

🍕 Romance on the Cliff Edge: Fresh Pizza from the Hilux's Tailgate Kitchen


All the effort of the climb to the top of Matengai was more than worth it. We parked our off-road machine somewhere overlooking the grassy slopes and sea view, opened up the tailgate kitchen, and fired up the small gas burner — this time, it was pizza's turn to shine. Tomato sauce, sliced cheese, and basil pesto, piled on generously and simply, as the dough slowly turned golden and crisp in the pan, filling the air with irresistible aroma. Biting into hot, cheesy pizza while gazing out over green highlands and layered mountains in the distance — this "cliff-top pizza afternoon tea" is exactly the kind of moment a Sora Campers rooftop-tent overland 4x4 lets you enjoy on a whim, whenever inspiration strikes.


Pizza cooking in a black pan on a green camping stove at an SUV tailgate, with a Kleenex box and grass in the background.
 Fresh pizza straight from the Hilux's tailgate kitchen, golden and fragrant
Man in cap and glasses serves pizza slices from a pan outdoors, with mountains, green field, and blue sky behind him.
Pizza afternoon tea, on top of the cliffs

🚙 Racing the Ridgeline: Overlanding's Ultimate Shot From the Air


Leaving Matengai behind, a narrow ridge road stretched ahead of us, climbing straight into the sky — dense cedar forest on either side, opening up here and there into green pastures where wild horses graze. As the drone rose into the air, it captured the Hilux threading its way alone along this ridgeline skyline: golden morning light spilling over the peaks, a single 4x4 winding through an endless sea of green — this is exactly the kind of visual poetry that makes Overlanding so captivating.


Aerial view of a black SUV on a winding road through lush green forested hills under a hazy sky.
Wild horses grazing peacefully on either side as the ridge road winds onward

🏕 The Five-Star Shimane-hana Campsite Experience


Racing along the ridgeline, our destination — Shimane-hana Campsite — finally came into view. Tucked deep in the highlands, this highly rated campsite is remarkably well-equipped:


• Wooden gazebo lookout — sweeping 360° views of the Oki Islands, from sunrise to sunset to the starfilled sky

• Restrooms — a hot-water shower room with proper wet/dry separation, spotlessly clean

• Spacious kitchen pavilion — a BBQ dining area with multiple grills and immaculately clean tiled dishwashing sinks, easily large enough for a whole group to dine together


Wooden gazebo lookout with stairs on a grassy hill, backed by green mountains and a clear blue sky; calm, sunny scene.
The wooden gazebo lookout

Sunlit narrow bathroom with wood-paneled walls, white tile, and a tipped white trash bin on a wooden tray.
 The hot-water shower room
Open-air wooden pavilion with brick barbecue grills and sunlight streaming through slatted walls; no people visible.
 The fully-equipped BBQ dining area
Person in gray hoodie cleaning a sink under a wooden pavilion with tiled counters and sunlight streaming in.
 The immaculately clean tiled sink

Looking out over the whole campsite, the Hilux and its rooftop tent, parked on the grassy slope and cradled by the surrounding mountains, looked completely at ease — and that's exactly what makes the Oki Islands so captivating.


Sunny campground with a parked black SUV, small shelter, curving road, grassy lawns, and mountains under a clear blue sky.
A panoramic view of Shimane-hana Campsite, cradled by the surrounding mountains

🌇 Sunset at Onimai: Back Atop the Highlands for Golden Hour


With everything set up and time still on our side, we fired up the Hilux again and headed back along the familiar mountain road to Onimai Lookout — this sweeping, wide-open vista at the top of the highlands. By now the sun was sinking slowly toward the edge of the Sea of Japan, painting the sky in gradients of orange, with the Hilux parked quietly beside the wooden railing, its rooftop tent glowing in the sunset — the perfect illustration of the philosophy of "unhurried freedom."


Black pickup with rooftop cargo box parked by the sea at sunset, orange sky over fence and picnic tables.
Back at Onimai Lookout, the Hilux quietly watches the sun sink into the Sea of Japan

🔥 "Wild Cooking" While Camping Is No Simple Skill


When it comes to charcoal-grilled cooking, steak is all about controlling the heat just right — get it wrong, and a thick cut ends up either undercooked or dried out from overcooking. Charcoal-grilled Wagyu is, of course, the star of any camping trip in Japan, simply because Japan's own Wagyu is some of the best-value, best-quality beef anywhere in the world.


Thick-cut Wagyu ribeye, seasoned with black pepper and salt, rested to come to temperature as the BBQ coals burned red-hot. The steaks sizzled over the flames, their fat crackling as they slowly turned a rich caramel colour, while tomatoes, mushrooms, peppers, and foil-wrapped onions joined them on the grill.


Grilled steak with foil-wrapped onion, cherry tomatoes, and green bell peppers on a grill against a brick wall.
 Steaks grilling alongside tomatoes, mushrooms, and peppers
Spread of homemade dishes on a wooden table: salad, roasted tomatoes, baked potatoes, soup, cucumbers, pink salt, and labeled cups.
 A generous spread — salad, sweetcorn cream soup, and grilled vegetables

Once our Sora Campers chef sliced it open, the tender medium-rare meat revealed a brilliant red at its centre — served alongside a generous spread of salad, sweetcorn cream soup, grilled vegetables, and baked potatoes, we gathered around the wooden camp table, trading thumbs-ups and peace signs, laughter carrying across the campsite. This charcoal-grilled steak dinner beneath a sky full of stars is what Overlanding in a 4x4 camper is really about — "the wilder the road, the better the ride."


Man in a green track jacket carves grilled steak on a wooden table under a timber pavilion, focused on preparing food.
Our Sora Campers chef slicing the thick-cut Wagyu
Three smiling people pose with peace signs around a picnic table of camp food in a wooden shelter at night.
Gathered around the wooden table beneath a sky full of stars, sharing a charcoal-grilled steak dinner
Sliced medium-rare steak on a wooden board, juices and sauce glistening on a blue napkin-covered table.
Tender medium-rare meat, vivid red at the centre

🌌 Closing: A Perfect Ending Beneath the Milky Way


Full and content, we walked over to the stargazing deck beside the campsite and looked up — and Shimanehana, free from any light pollution, didn't disappoint. A vast arc of the Milky Way stretched across the entire sky, hanging quietly above the wooden lookout deck, as if drawing the most spectacular close to the day.


Starry night sky with the Milky Way above a wooden lookout tower, trees, and fence in a quiet rural landscape.
The Milky Way arching across the night sky, suspended quietly above the wooden lookout deck

The next morning, a soft mist drifted slowly over the distant mountains, offering the gentlest possible farewell to this journey through Nishinoshima's hidden edge of the world.


Sunrise over misty mountains and a river, with a bridge in the distance and dark green foliage in the foreground
 Mist drifting over the mountains — the gentlest of farewells

From the sunrise at the cove, the dramatic rock formations of Kuniga Coast, our close encounter with wild horses, the sheer cliffs of Matengai, to the starlit steak dinner at Shimane-hana — this journey across Nishinoshima taught us, deeply, that the true magic of Overlanding was never about rushing from one spot to the next or chasing the perfect photo. It's about surrendering completely to whatever scenery and moments come your way, embracing the travelling spirit born from the interplay of "freedom" and "leisure" — what we simply call "unhurried freedom."


🌅 Coming Up Next: Landing on Dōgojima! Ancient Sacred Trees and the Legend of the Sea-Top Candle


• Kuroki Shrine Torii: Driving right up to an ancient torii deep within a cedar forest, an up-close encounter between vehicle and sacred ground

• The Nursing Cedar of Iwakura: A thousand-year-old giant cedar with gnarled roots hanging like drooping breasts, a designated Japanese Natural Monument seen up close • The Wonder of Candle Island: Sailing out to sea to catch the world-famous sight of the setting sun landing perfectly atop a rock pillar

• Tsuma Campsite: A hidden campsite within Daisen-Oki National Park, where campfire dinners and a dazzling night sky return once more


Want to see how the Hilux conquers this final leg of our Dōgojima adventure? Follow SORA CAMPERS and stay tuned for the next chapter of our [Oki Odyssey] series — we'll see you under the sunset at Candle Island! Message us directly to book your own rooftop-tent overland 4x4 and let Sora Campers launch your next off-road adventure into Japan's hidden corners.


If you're into stargazing and astrophotography too, or curious about campervan travel in Japan, feel free to message us and swap notes. For more moments of unhurried freedom from Cigiyoo, follow us on Instagram @cigiyoo.


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